From Tuesday to Sunday, you can marvel at the choice along the aisles of the Capucins market, one of the largest in the Metropolitan area. People meet there on Sundays for brunch, graze on tapas, or enjoy seafood platters to the sound of a jazz band. Or head for the Chartrons market on the waterfront to taste oysters from Arcachon Bay, local specialities like «tricandilles» or Grenier Médocain, a sliced tripe sausage, and admire the view of the Garonne River. A recent addition, in Le Tasta district of Bruges on alternate Wednesdays, features an open-air farmers’ market and food trucks offering gourmet delights.
Eat with the stars
The last couple of years has seen the arrival of several top chefs with Philippe Etchebest at the Quatrième Mur in 2015, British chef Gordon Ramsay at the Pressoir d’Argent (2 stars), and finally Pierre Gagnaire at the luxurious Grande Maison (2 stars) in mid-2016.
These establishments join the Gironde’s star-studded landscape, which already includes such gastronomic delights as: the St. James in Bouliac (1 star), Le prince Noir in Lormont (1 star), the Grand’ Vigne in Martillac (2 stars), Les Belles Perdrix at Château Troplong Mondot (1 star), Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac, l’Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint-Emilion (2 stars) and the historic Pavillon des Boulevards (1 star), Gabriel and Chapon Fin in Bordeaux.
Miam Bordeaux organizes gourmet walks in Bordeaux in small groups, to meet passionate artisans and taste local products.
Try a Sunday brunch: American-style at Plume Small Kitchen, relaxed at Chez les Tontons, British at the Breakfast Club, Scandinavian at Koeben, organic at the Magasin Général in the Darwin complex, or local at La Cagette Cantine Fraiche.
Affordable, exciting restaurants also flourish on the streets of Bordeaux, such as Le Taquin bistro and cocktail bar in Saint Michel, the trendy Symbiose on the Quai des Chartrons, which received Le Fooding’s 2017 Best Original Bar award, or Racines led by the Scottish leader, Daniel Gallacher.
Restaurants such as Côté Rue, Garopapilles and Le Hâ flirt with haute cuisine, offering a menu that will delight lovers of imaginative culinary associations combinations.
An interesting new arrival is La Grande Poste which opened on the Rue du Palais Gallien at the end of 2016 and hosts a range of cultural activities, with a stage and auditorium, a bar and restaurant, and artist-designer workshops.
For an organic or vegan lunch, try the Cosmopolis in St. Michel. For local products, that come from less than 200 km around Bordeaux, head for Belle Campagne in the old part of Bordeaux.
Fusion cuisine is definitely part of the Bordeaux scene: Miles reveals influences from all over the world, as does the newcomer, Mampuku («full belly» in Japanese), as well as Nama and Dan, taking delicious inspiration from Asian flavours.